NEXT MEMORY Atelier

Those in the know have been loyal followers of the SKINLIFE ever since they opened the doors to their first Chiado boutique in 2012. Founded by Dutch natives Dennis and Patrick, it quickly gained a reputation as the destination for discerning clients seeking high end fragrance and boutique skin care brands. The pair have now just launched their latest project, Next Memory Atelier, an ode to Portugal and the olfactory journey provided by such a historically rich country.

We sat down with them in their beautiful new store behind Avenida da Liberdade to learn about the birth of the project and their signature scents. 

 

FF: What did Next Memory come about, and how does it differ from SKINLIFE?

NM: Let me go back to the start: we opened SKINLIFE because there were no international brands in Portugal. But then, over the years, we noticed that clients were entering SKINLIFE asking for Portuguese brands, and there were also not many. That's pretty much how Next Memory was born.

FF: But that didn't happen right at the beginning, right? It was only a few years ago when people started to come to look for Portuguese products.

NM: Yes, also in clothes, wine, everything.

FF: So, when you started seeing people asking for Portuguese brands, something began to stir in your mind.

NM: Our clients were looking for SKINLIFE perfumes, for example, and we didn't have those. We started thinking we could make a fragrance. At that time, it was very successful, so we thought we would do something official and name it Next Memory. I have always attached a great sense of memories and emotions to smells, so for me, it was imperative to use that word, memories, because fragrances are all about that, to create new memories. We all have memories of our grandmother's cooking…

FF: Or running around in the backyard when we were kids.

NM: Yes, everything! We don't use our noses as often as we should. We're not aware of the magic our noses can do. They protect us from harm, but they also bring us back to the comfort zones we love the most.

FF: You have "memory", and you have "next". You want people to create new memories, is that right?

NM: Yes. With our brand, we try to create fragrances where you open the way for your own "next memory". So, in the future, someone will say, "this fragrance reminds me of my grandmother because she used Pink Lemon over Orange or a fragrance that speaks to you. That's the main idea behind the brand. It's also inspired by Portugal. Our travels around Portugal over the last 12 years are an inspiration; so much nature, the city's spirit, and the people's freedom. We wanted to capture that into the fragrances.

FF: I realize you have a lot more than just one product. Candles, home fragrances, and skincare — which are all so different from what you have at SKINLIFE, but also connected. There's a line that brings everything together. How did all the products start to be thought of and produced?

NM: The fragrances are the foundation for everything. Our home collection now has nine fragrances; with those, we can create all these different products, including our own personal fragrances, like Green Orange or its brother, Pink Lemon over Orange. We try to bring the fragrance families together mainly to tell a story through those products.

FF: The in-store experience is also very important.

NM: Yes, it's all about memory. We want people to know how to use their strong noses, which can do so much for them on a daily basis. We try to create gimmicks that will trigger people to use the nose differently.

FF: There's something wholly unique about Next Memory. There are all of these details that you want to explore even more as you look over the shelves and all of the products. And the beautiful scent in the air. And then you realize the building is full of history.

NM: Yes, we feel very lucky — maybe it was meant to be, but creating Next Memory based on our love for Portugal, and then we find this gorgeous space that belonged to a J. J. Fernandes pharmacy… Well, it feels like we were meant to create not just another brand but an experience.

FF: Did the historical significance behind J. J. Fernandes inspire you to do something special? And are you working on something similar in terms of products that used to be made here?

NM: First of all, I'm a massive fan of history and want to preserve what's there, what we have. For me, it's a passion. And, of course, we want to keep the history of J. J. Fernandes. He was one of the greatest pharmacists of this time; he made a lot of products, not only medicine but coffee, chocolate, and pencils.

FF: Very ahead of his time.

NM: Exactly. We have his recipes, and we are using those to create the same products, but with a twist. Before doing anything, he gave all of his patients some cod liver oil, rich in omega-3 fatty acids, but he flavoured it with banana just to make it taste a little better. Our first launch will be a banana-flavoured lip balm. That way, we're telling this story and keeping his legacy alive. That's very important to us.

FF: And what happens here at Next Memory?

NM: We make bespoke fragrances and home fragrances here. But everything that goes on the skin needs specific testing and manufacturing. For example, we create the lip balm to see what we want and then send it to the laboratory to be produced. Everything that goes through here is tested and controlled by us, so we're sure what's perfect and what's not.

FF: How perfectionist are you?

NM: Sometimes, a bit too much. Sometimes you have to let it go.

FF: But it's hard, I'm sure. You're dealing with very specific products you inhale or put on your skin, so it's normal to want to make them perfect.

NM: And also, because we want to be a luxurious niche brand. Every detail needs to be taken care of.

FF: Can you tell me about the signature scent you're working on for Next Memory called '187'?

NM: We have a tea collection, and there's one specific tea that brings a smile to everyone's faces every time you open the jar. We're trying to capture that fragrance into a perfume, but it's quite challenging to take that smell, give it an alcohol base, and make it work perfectly. But we're still moving forward to transform it into a signature smell, because everybody loves it, and it makes people happy. That's the whole idea of creating fragrances: you want people to feel happy.

FF: And you're also working on a signature scent for Fantastic Frank. That's amazing! Tell me how that works and where you usually start.

NM: Every bespoke fragrance is like a journey on its own. It really depends on the person in front of us. Some people really know what they want and the exact ingredients they like. And then some people don't have the slightest clue and just say, "do whatever you want; we just want your creativity". And then you have the in-betweens, where people say they like citric or floral smells, and you get the hint. With Fantastic Frank, I looked at the company and where the company comes from. And they gave us complete freedom. I have some ideas! The first appointment is usually to learn more about the person, what they know about smells and what they want. And then we'll show them options.  

FF: You've been doing this for quite some time, but is it hard for you to get it right?

NM: It's hard when the inspiration doesn't come, especially when they give you freedom. When someone knows that they like citrus, for example, I know which way to go. And if the client doesn't like anything, you just have to start from scratch.

FF: It seems like a fun process.

NM: Yes, but it also takes a lot of time. And it's something you hold on to for life.

All photos by SkinLife
Interview by Soraia Martins for Fantastic Frank Lisbon